The Turners Ride the Divide.
Riding The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR) July / Aug 2023
My Latest Posts
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- Day 52 – Hachita to Antelope Wells on the Mexican Border
We stayed the night in the Hachita Community Centre. Also staying there were Martin and Gina from New Zealand, who we’ve been crossing paths with since around day 12, and Steven from New York State, who we met last night for the first time.
Gina, Martin and Steven left early, so we were on our own when we packed up, and set off for the last 45 miles of our journey, that would take us to our finishing point at the Mexican Border.
The road was very quiet as the crossing point doesn’t open until 10am, and it was great watching the sun rise as we rode, counting down the mile markers.
We came across a rattlesnake that we thought was dead, but might just have been docile from the cool night.
We passed a lot of Border patrol vans, and a high-tech looking van with motion and infrared sensors looking out over the desert. It would be a tough journey trecking the 40 miles over he desert from the Border the interstate highway.
The miles seemed to tick away. We spent the last 10 miles chatting about the trip and things that had happened. Then, before we knew it, we were at Antelope Wells.
We took photos and said goodbyes to Martin, Gina and Steven, who were heading straight to El Paso.
Jeffery Sharp who runs a shuttle service was there to pick us up. We stored our bikes in his trailer, then retraced our steps back to Hachita, but this time in his air-conditioned volvo.
Jeffery took us to his ranch where he cooked us breakfast, and we relaxed and packed our bikes before he drove us to Lordsburg for the 5 hour greyhound journey to Pheonix.
It’s hard to believe the adventure is over. We’ve met some great people and experienced some amazing things. Starting at Banff feels so long ago!
I can’t wait to start planning our next adventure!
- Day 52 – Hachita to Antelope Wells
46 miles,
Final Day!
Left Community Center in Hachita about 6.30 just as sun was rising. It was a straight road , 46 miles long and only goes to the border with Mexico. Not much on Road except Border Control trucks and snakes.
Arrived at border at the same time as Jeffery Sharp who we had arranged to collect us and take us to the nearest bus stop, 100 miles away. We went via his bike ranch where we had a shower, he made us food and he supplied us with boxes for our bikes.
So glad to be finished but also sad that the adventure is over. We have had an amazing trip and met some great people. Off to relax and chill for a bit until we fly home.
- Day 51 – Silver City to Hachita ( New Mexico)
78.4 miles, 2346 ft, 31 deg
Only two days to go!
Busy road out of Silver City and we stopped at a drive through ATM to get some cash.
Highway got quiet very quickly as we headed out towards the Chihauhuan desert. We were on the highway for about 20 miles before we turned on to our last bit of gravel. Good bit of road and lots of cactus.
At 40 miles we got to Separ which had a shop where we got cold juice
Shop at Separ Last 27 miles to Hachita were tough going as a horrible bit of washboard gravel for 6 miles then onto tarmac for last 20 miles.
Excited to see sign for Antelope Wells! Staying at Community Center in Hachita tonight then heading to border tomorrow morning 😊
Neil, Sheena, Steve, Gina and Martin at Community Center - Day 50 – Rest Day in Silver City
We had a bit of a lie in, then met Flavio and Ila who were also in town for breakfast.
The motel lent us a hose, so we washed and lubed the bikes before heading into Silver City to do our laundry.
Silver City is nice, it has a historical centre and main street, unlike some of the other towns we’ve been through, which were a highway with malls and motels on either side. The buildings are much more Mexican in style. And there’s a good selection of coffee shops and restaurants.
It’s the early home of Billy the Kid. He was jailed here when was 13 or 14, for robbing a Chinese Laundry, and then he also made his first jailbreak here.
We only have a couple of days and 127 miles left of the trip. It feels like we’re hurtling back to 21st century life after 50 days in backcountry America.
Up until now, most car drivers have waved, and some have stopped us to ask if we need water or food. We’ve been able to camp anywhere on public land, which includes national forests which go on for hundreds of miles.
For the next couple of days from Silver City to the Mexican border, one of the guide books warns:
“Due to drug trafficking and the flow of undocumented migrants, it is advised to use this route only during the day. You could encounter drug traffickers, the Border Patrol, ‘minutemen’ (unofficial mili tia groups), Mexican coyotes (trafficking humans over the border) undocumented migrants, and other tourists. If you do camp, do so well off the highway.”
Also, to reinforce the feeling of heading back to 21st century life, the restaurant we were due to eat at tonight was sealed off, and police were running around with rifles in the street.
Having said all that, we’re looking forward to the next section over the Chihauhuan desert to the Border via Separ and Hachita. We plan to stay tomorrow night in Hachita Community Centre then do the last 45 miles to the Border on Wednesday.
We haven’t finalised how we’ll get back from the Border or where we’ll go next. But we have plenty of time to kill as our flight home isn’t until 10th September.
- Day 49 – Black Canyon CG to Silver City ( New Mexico)
59 miles, 4970 ft, 30 deg
It was dry when we got up but the tent was still wet. Started straight away with a 10 mile climb and 2 miles in we hit the peanut butter mud again but luckily it was only about 100 meters so we carried our bikes over it and spent a good bit cleaning the mud off.
Neil pushing through mud 
View from bottom of canyon At 30 miles we hit the first shop we had passed for 5 days so got ice cream, juice and chocolate!
Eventually got to Silver City about 5 after climbing lots of hills
Ghost town of Pinos Altos 
Silver City 
No rain today! Now we have to start planning our escape from the border but a day off tomorrow first.
- Day 48 – Collins Park to Black Canyon
55 miles, 3114 ft
The overnight rain had stopped and we woke up to a stunning morning. Bread rolls and laughing cow cheese for breakfast, and we were ready to face the day ahead, that would take is through the Gila National Forest and the Mogolon & Black Mountains.
The weather was fine and we made good progress covering the 30 miles to Beaverhead Work Centre. Beaverhead is famous on the Great Divide Mountain Bike route, as the 190 mile leg between Pie Town and Silver city has no shops or re-supply options. But Beaverhead Workstation is a Forest Fire Service base, which has water and a COKE MACHINE!
Sadly the Coke machine wasn’t working, but we had cold water and fruit that a local farmer gave us a few miles before. He had stopped us in his pickup truck to check if we needed any food and water.
We had no idea the scenery in New Mexico was so varied. Not all desert as we’d expected.
It started to rain heavily not long after our break but we pressed on. There were a few good climbs and descents. We’d hoped to get further but decided to call it a day at 55 miles and get the tent up, and get dry.
It’s hard to believe this could be our last night camping. We plan a day off in Silver City and from there its just 2 days to the Border. It should hopefully be warmer and drier, as that last part is over the Chihuahuan Desert.
- Day 47 – Pie Town to Collins Park primative CG ( New Mexico)
68.9 miles, 4902 ft,
Sad to leave Pie Town behind. We had a nice flat/downhill start across open land then we went through a lot of forest until we went around the Plains of San Agustin, which were stunning. They also contain the worlds largest radio telescope and also was hit by a meteorite storm and contains lots of space rocks.
Plains is San Agustin (50 miles in diameter) Got caught in a thunderstorm, so had to shelter for about 30 mins then rode on another few miles to camp.
Campsite after second thunderstorm - Day 46 – El Malpais conservation area to Pie Town (New Mexico)
45 miles, 1826ft
It was still raining when we woke up so we were still “mud bound” in the tent at the side of the road, where the bike wheels wouldn’t turn any more because of the mud.
We had a lie in then started packing around 7.30 am. The tyres had lots of thorns in them, that must have been in the mud, but the Sealant seemed to have sealed them so I added air, and cleaned the chains as best I could.
It was still too muddy to ride so we sat by the road for an hour until.the sun hit it, then set off again without the tyres accumulating mud.
After 20 miles we hit a short section of tarmac where we had a big choice. Turn right for an all tarmac (no mud, 47 mile) ride to pie town, or turn right to continue on the Great Divide route (and risk getting mud bound on the gravel if it rained again). The clouds were ominous but the forecast said no rain, so we went for the gravel route.
25 miles later we arrived in Pie Town (yes that’s its real name, and it is famous for it’s pies.) The town began as a service station run by someone with a mining claim nearby. He advertised his pies leading to the town being nicknamed Pie Town, and the name was eventually registered with the postal service and became official.
We tried the Amish Apple, strawberry & rhubarb and Honey & Pecan Pies. They were very good.
We then stayed at the Toaster House which is famous on the Continental Divide. It had a hose pipe and maintenance stand, do we were able to clean the bikes after the mudfest.
- Day 45 – Grants to El Malpais conservation area
47.2 miles, 2379ft, 18 deg
Shortish day! Went to Denny’s for big breakfast then set off into El Malpais conservation area. Started through Zuni Canyon
Start of Zuni canyon Passed lots of lava at the side of the road
At the start of today’s ride we passed a sign saying impassible when wet, as we were not expecting rain we carried on. We had been told about the roads turning into thick sticky mud but not seen it.It started to rain about 2.30 and 5 mins later there was so much mud on our bikes we had to stop and pitch the tent. It continued to rain so we stopped 20 miles short of our planned campsite.
Neil hiding from the rain. - Day 44 – Spring in the desert to Grants (New Mexico)
43miles, 3110ft
Although we were in the desert we had a couple of thunder storms through the night, but the rain had evaporated by the time we got up.
We found something had chewed through one of Sheenas panier straps and a couple of our water bottle mouth pieces.
Renato, Albert, the Italians, Gina and Martin all picked the same camp spot because of the availability of water. It was nice having everyone there. 
We set off just after 7, expecting an easy day, but the middle part was hard going because of the ups and downs and the thick gravel. But we eventually hit tarmac and the last 10 miles were downhill to Grants.
We passed the state prison, which had signs outside asking drivers not to pick up hitchikers…..
We found a Laundromat, grabbed some cold drinks and found a Days Inn for the night.
Craig who is riding the Divide, and we first met in Big Fork, and have regularly crossed paths with him since, invited us to a pizza night that his friends were holding to celebrate his efforts. Craig is from Albuquerque, so Grants is the closest point to his hometown. It was a great night, and his friends really looked after us. Albert, Renato, Ila and Flavio who we’ve regularly met, were there too, which made the night extra special.
- Day 43 – Cuba to a spring in the desert (New Mexico)
74.5 miles, 3822 ft, 30 deg
Hot, windy, dry and long but amazing views!
We went to McDonalds first to get food and coffee as there is nothing for next 115 miles except 2 places to get water.
These are the views
And this is where we got water. Had to filter it and also put an iodine tablet in it!
Filtering water from that muddy puddle! 
Water pipe at campsite 
Campsite - Day 42 – Heron Lake to Cuba NM
A rare treat, the RV park we are at does breakfast. So a late start. Spent 20 mins before breakfast watching the hummingbirds.
The route today is a diversion to Cuba because of a forest fire. The first part of the route was unlike anything we’ve seen up.until now.
The wind was in our face for much of the day, which was tough going. But we both enjoyed our first day in New Mexico.
We stopped for cold drinks at Regina Mercentile. It was in the middle of nowhere, and wasn’t very busy, but they had a big Bank of fridges with cola, lemonade and gatoeade.
We arrived in Cuba along a busy highway, and booked into the Cuba Motor Lodge.
Most of the people we’ve met on the route were in town. So we went to dinner at a Mexican.
- Day 41 – Platoro (Colorado) to Heron Lake (New Mexico)
Aug 20
73.9 miles, 3323 ft, 33 deg
Left Platoro about 7.20 to make our way down the valley to Horca, about 23 miles. It was very cold but as soon as the sun got on us it was ok. We stopped at a small store for coffee and snacks.
The worms were in the fridge with the milk and cheese!
Valley to Horca
Horses by the Conejos river
We were told we had to stop in Horca for Apple pies made by the Amish, they were good but no photos!
We hit tarmac at Horca and climbed Cumbres Pass and La Manga Pass. After we checked the fire reports we decided to take the detour to Cuba as a section of the divide from Abiquiu’s to Cuba is closed. Just after the La Manga pass we crossed into New Mexico, which is our final state on the divide route.
Riding up La Manga Pass with Renato, me and Neil, photo by Albert.
Amazing hummingbirds at our campsite
- Day 40 – Del Norte to Platoro (Colorado)
49miles, 5810ft, 21C
We got an early start, leaving the motel before 7am to try to beat the heat.
It was a slight uphill from the off, that would take us 23 miles with 4000ft of ascent to the highest point on the route, Indiana Pass at 11958ft. I thought we’d become acclimatised to the altitude as we’ve been bouncing between 7000ft and 9000ft for a few weeks, but we were both struggling for breath, even though we were moving slowly.
Just over the pass we came to a small modern looking mine at summitville, that was quite a scar on the landscape. It was surrounded by old dilapidated wooden buildings, so it looked like mining had been taking place there for a lot of years.
We then had another climb over Stunner pass before descending to Platoro.
Platoro 
Our cabin for the night We need to give the next section of the route some thought, as part of it between Abiquiu and Cuba is closed because of the Black Feather forest fire (they give all the fires names.
- Day 39 – Rest day in Del Norte
0 miles, 0 ft, 30 deg
Lazy day relaxing in Del Norte.
Spent a second night in Mellow Moon Motel
It is a lot nicer than it looks from the outside.
Did laundry and had a wander around the town and relaxed in our room. Getting ready for our big climb tomorrow, the highest point of the divide route.
- Day 38 – Upper Dome Dam to Del Norte (Colorado)
74.5 miles, 3885 ft. 30C
It was very cold when we woke up, so it took a bit of time to get going. We were also tired as the last couple of days have been pretty brutal.
We’d heard lots of animals around the tent as soon as we switched the light off, but we’ve no idea what they were.
As soon as we started cycling it was slightly up hill, but the gradient was OK. We past old telegraph poles (which were just roughly cut tree branches) and some old mine workings.
The first climb took us to Cochetopa pass at 10067ft we then descended a bit and entered Rio Grand national forest to climb Carnero pass at 10166ft.
The Carnero pass climb felt brutal as it was over 11 miles, and the temp was in the 30’s. We met Ila and Flavio who were having lunch at the top.
We then descended towards La Garita and past Penitent Canyon. Named after the The Pentinent brothers, a Catholic sect that began in 13th Century Europe and was brought to America in 1598. The men of the sect would meet in their lodges, where among other rituals they practiced torture and self flagulation. Although outlawed, the practice continued into the 20th century. The climb up Carnero pass made me think that we’re continuing the practice.
At the bottom of the descent we had the choice of heading on tarmac Road to the cafe in La Garita. Or taking a rough gravel road towards a thunder storm (and the town of Del Norte). We took the later as we were keen to make it all the way so we could have a rest day tomorrow.
The route into Del Norte was a bit convoluted as we had to go around the airport (signs warned against taking bikes onto the runway 😀)
We found a Mexican restaurant with Renato, Albert and Justin’s bikes outside. So had dinner with them before finding a motel.
- Day 37 – O’Haver Lake GC to Upper Dome Dam
64.9 miles, 3852 ft, 30 deg
Lovely start to our day at the O’Haver Lake. Another Scottish couple, Derek and Hazel, were also staying at the same place but we didn’t realise until we met them later in the day at the only place on the route today for food.
View of campsite from above We then had the 10 mile climb to the top of Marshall Pass, which was scenic but pretty tough. The downhill was a bit sketchy in places. We then hit Sargents which had a garage, shop and cafe, which is last place for 100 miles for food so we had lunch.
We passed an area that had lots of beaver dams 
Lunch stop After food we had 12 miles along a road then back onto gravel for another 30 on gravel to our campsite beside Upper Dome Dam.
Filtering water a few miles before our campsite 
Campsite - Day 36 – Hartsel to O’Haver Lake Campground (Colorado)
65.2 miles, 4564ft
Up early after our night spent camping in the Hartsel Ranch ‘party barn’.
We were put off camping behind the Harsel pub as the owner told us a black bear often visits to scrounge food from the dumpster. What we’d read before we started the trip on bears was that the most dangerous are mothers with cubs followed by bears that scavenge human food. So the barn seemed a good option.
Hartsel Ranch Party Barn We packed up and left in record time, to head to Hartsel Saloon for breakfast, only to find that Sheenas cassette and free hub were rotating freely in both directions (the hub normally drives the rear wheel when you pedal, but disengages when you free wheel or pedal backwards). It was now disengaged in both directions making it impossible to pedal.
There were a number of other people riding the Great Divide in town so it seemed a good idea to sound them out for ideas, and they would be in the cafe / saloon for breakfast.
The cafe was a couple of miles away but pretty flat, so I was able to tow sheena, using a bit of paracord as a tow rope.
Breakfast was very good, and we got some good ideas on how to release the pawls in the hub
Dereks preferred solution was a using a socket to just hit the lockring. Renatos was similar, but with less finesse. He gently swung the wheel so the hub hit off a traffic sign pole.
That released the pawl so the hub worked correctly, but had stuck again before sheena got onto the road.
The nearest bike shop was in Salida, 50 miles away. So we went through the process of removing the wheel and hitting the hub with a rock half a dozen times, and while the freehub was working Sheena had to pedal constantly.
Freehub Later we came up with a new technique for releasing it. Putting an Alen key in the axel release slot then lamping the alen key with a big rock had the same effect without needing to remove the wheel.
We made it to Salida, with an amazing 10 mile descent through the San Isobel forest.
Descent into Salida Absolute bikes in Salida was very efficient, the mechanic took the freehub apart as soon as we arrived and let us know our options. We went for a new wheel, and were ready to go a couple of hours later.
Having had dinner we decided to press on and get part way up Marshall pass, the climb to the top being 20 miles and 4000ft of ascent. So we camped 5 miles up it as a forestry service camp ground at O’Haver Lake.
The lower part of Marshall pass 
O’Haver Lake camp ground - Day 35 – Breckinridge to Hartsel
52.6 miles, 2877 ft, 17 deg
Started with a breakfast in Breckinridge then headed out to climb Boreas Pass. It was 10 miles but an easy gradient the whole way. It was the route of an old railway line which probably explained the gradient
Old water tank for the railway 
Top of the pass Boreas Pass is the highest pass so far at 11,482 ft and great divide crossing #16.
On the descent we passed Selkirk Camp ground but did not stay!
There was one more climb then we had about 10 miles of flat to Hartsel which is the only town in the 100 miles from Breckinridge to Salida . There is a saloon bar, cafe and a garage which stocks limited food. we had food and a beer at the bar then went to find our accommodation for the night. The bar lets you camp for free out the back but a bear has been at the bins recently so we are at a ranch in a ‘party barn’.
- Day 34 -Rest Day in Breckenridge (Colorado)
We decided on a rest day as we’ve only had one full day off since we started. We’re staying at the Beaver Run resort. Which is a big ski resort during the winter. Breckenridge is a nice town. With lots of victorian wooden buildings. Historically, it was a cowboy and mining town, but more recently, skiing and tourism have taken over.
We worked out that we’ve now done 1700 miles, which should leave about 1000 miles remaining.
We had breakfast in the hotel, then had a look around Breckenridge, then went back to the hotel and found the Newcastle v Aston Villa game on the TV.
We collected the bikes from the bike shop where they were being serviced. New chains, back tyres and a few other adjustments.
Then we headed out for dinner with Renato and Albert, and also Craig and Justin, who had just arrived in town.
Our hotel room was nice…. until we moved in.
- Day 33 – Williams Fork Reservoir to Breckinridge (Colorado)
58.9 miles, 4127 ft, 23 deg then rain
Lovely morning beside the lake. Good gravel roads all morning but lots of trucks passing us as a new dam was getting built on the road we were on. A big climb up Ute pass then great long downhill.
Top of Ute Pass Got onto highway and had to take a lift on a truck for a few miles as they would not let us ride through roadworks. Got onto a cycle path just before Silverthorne and it took us all the way to Breckinridge, about 20 miles! So much better than the highway and flatter than most riding we do. Now looking forward to a day off!
Silverthorne 
Dillon Dam Cycle Path - Day 32 – Stagecoach Lake to Williams Fork Reservoir (Colorado)
77miles, 7077ft, 29C
We woke up expecting a tough day with lots of climbing.
We’ve booked accommodation for a couple of rest days in Breckenridge , so to get there we need to cover 135miles in 2 days.
The first climb of the day took us up to Lynx pass at just over 9000ft, and the terrain was fairly undulating after that.
We came across an old stagecoach post, and also had to ford a river
We descended to Radium where we crossed the Colorado river and lots of white water rafts were passing by.
The map showed a convenience store where we planned to get lunch and breakfast for tomorrow, but it looked like the store doesn’t exist any more.
We decided to go 3 miles off route to Kremlin, about 17miles away. But the 17 Miles included a big climb on a busy gravel road being used by trucks returning rafts up river. This was a bit un-nerving as the trucks were moving fast and the gravel at the sides of the road was pretty deep.
We made it to Kremlin and got dinner at Subway and coffee and food for tomorrow from a garage, and although it was getting late, we decided to crack on to camp at Williams Fork Reservoir.
- Day 31 – Steamboat to Stagecoach State Park (Colorado)
23.6 miles, 1385 ft, 23 deg
Spent most of the day in Steamboat Springs as we had a few things to do and it is a nice place. Had breakfast, coffee and lunch before heading out of town so that Neil could get a US SIM card.
Main Street, Steamboat Springs 
Ski slopes from Main Street Started cycling at 3ish and stopped at first campsite which was at Stagecoach State Park
Another camper gave us some watermelon 
Campground 
Campsite in the morning - Day 30 – Slater to Steamboat Springs (Colorado)
62.5 miles, 4800ft, 17C
We struggled a bit to get up but were keen to cross the state line into Colorado which was only a few hundred meters along the road from the campsite.
The landscape had changed noticeably, more rugged and rocky and lots of aspen trees. In the first couple of miles we saw 2 deer and a big snake (the snake was squashed on the road).
We stopped at Brush Mountain Lodge, which along with its owner Kirsten is a famous part of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. She welcomed us both with a hug, and we had a coffee and a chat.
The break at Brush Mountain put a spring in our step, and although the gravel surface and climbs were slow going, it helped my saddle sore as it had me out of the saddle or changing position, unlike on the tarmac, which seems to agrivate it.
This is my kind of place. We had 9km of this! When we arrived in Steamboat we headed straight to a burger restaurant with wifi, so we could eat and find accommodation via WiFi. We found everywhere was fully booked… We eventually found a room at the Nordic Lodge. We really need to get a USA sim card so we can start booking in advance.
- Day 29 – Rawlins to campsite near Slater (Wyoming)
74.1 miles, 5135 ft, 18 deg
We were expecting 15 miles of tarmac then onto gravel today but the road had been upgraded so we had about 40 miles of tarmac before we hit the gravel.
Just outside Rawlins The scenery started very much like yesterday with lots of scrub then we hit trees about 45 miles in. Nearly all of the forests we saw today contained Aspen and we passed through Aspen Alley.
Aspen woodland 
Aspen Alley 
A long day and we found a campsite at a farm. We were the only campers, the toilets were very dirty but the two brothers that ran it were entertaining. They had a black bear in the campsite a couple of weeks ago but fired a gun into the ground and it jumped the four foot fence and ran away! They also had a cougar and one of the dogs got bitten by a rattle snake!
- Day 28 – A&M reservoir to Rawlins (Wyoming)
54 miles, 1250ft, 16c
We had a bit of a lie in this morning, after the drama of the lightning and hail storm last night.
Once under way, the sandy gravel roads were still wet, and I hit patches of mud a couple of times and came off. Thankfully, the roads were more sand than gravel, so I didn’t get much gravel rash.
The ride to Rawlins was about 13 miles on gravel, then 25 miles on an old Bureau of land mgt tarmac Road with no traffic. Then 18 miles on a busy highway into Rawlins.
We got caught in a big thunder storm on the highway into Rawlins. There was no shelter so we just had to keep going until we came across some golden arches and dived into McDonald’s. No Veggie options, but Sheena seemed happy with her fillet o fish burger, and the coffee and free WiFi were good.
We then got a room at the salubrious Western Lodge motel, to let us dry out.
- Day 27 – Atlantic City to A & M Reservoir (Wyoming)
78.9 miles, 3615 ft, 17 deg
Today we are starting on the Great Divide Basin which we think will take us 2 days. It is 130 miles with no food and very little water.
The Great Divide Basin, is a 3,600-square-mile geographic conundrum where waters drain neither west to the Pacific nor east to the Atlantic. It is usually dry but it has been raining for the last couple of weeks here so there is some water available.
Nodding donkey oil wells 
Wild horses 
Neil having a sleep on the road, he was snoring 😂 We got to our campsite about 6 and got our tent up just before a thunderstorm came through. It was pretty spectacular but only lasted about 15 minutes then the sun came out again
After the thunderstorm 
Also after thunderstorm - Day 26 – Pinedale to Atlantic City (Wyoming)
86 miles, 4429ft, 20c,
It was hard to get going, as it was chucking down with rain when we woke up at 5.30am
We eventually got going, the first 10 miles were on a busy highway. After about 15 mins I could feel the water sloshing around in my shoes with each pedal stroke. Sheena then got a puncture that we were able to fix with a plug.
Sheena enjoying the rain The road soon changed to gravel, but it was very compressed and smooth and the views were stunning.
Much of the gravel road followed the route of the Lander Cut off, which shortened the Oregon trail by 7 days. This also passed the spot of the Willie’s Handcart disaster where in 1856 70 Mormon pioneers, all members of the 400 strong Willie’s Hand Cart Company perished in an October snowstorm while traveling from the East Coast to Utah.
We camped for the night in Atlantic City which couldn’t be further from the sea and has a population of 55.
- Day 25 – Whiskey Grove CG to Pinedale (Wyoming)
34.35 miles, 646 ft, 15 deg
We had some heavy showers overnight but had stopped by the time we got up. Short day and mostly on roads into Pinedale, and it stayed dry despite the clouds.
Stopped at laundry on way into town.
Very Wyoming decor! Did a bit of shopping for bike things and food. Then went to motel and Neil cleaned bikes and we chilled for a bit. Had some great Chinese food at China Gourmet then a beer with some other great divide riders then another early night.
Pinedale, a cowboy town - Day 24 – Lava Mountain Lodge to Whiskey Grove (Wyoming)
59miles, 4970ft
Lightning was forecast and we were due to go over Union Pass, at 9000ft, so we decided an early start was best and were away by 7am, with only light rain.
There were 3 climbs before we started Union Pass, and the rain stopped and there was no sign of the forecast lightening
Soon after we got over Union Pass the rain started again, and it was surprising how the gravel roads rapidly deteriorated with only a little rain, quickly turning to thick sticky, sandy mud.
We set up the tent at Whiskey Grove, and made dinner before retreating to the tent again when the rain started.
- Day 23- Colter Bay to Lava Mountain Ranch
55 miles, 3878 ft, 27 deg
Left Grand Teton National Park this morning after Neil fixed my flat back tyre. Lots of amazing views of the mountains on the way out.
Passed the Be bear aware van on way along the road!
Stopped for breakfast with this view!
Started climbing soon after this and it seemed to go on a long time. About 15 miles I think! We eventually got up to the top of Togwotee Pass and Continental Divide crossing # 8. It was very scenic.
We eventually got to descend to Lava Mountain Lodge where we are staying in a lodge.
- Day 22 – Warm River (Idaho) to Coulter Bay (Wyoming)
Another early start, packed up and away by 7am. I really enjoyed the night at Warm River.
The morning was fairly brutal, with a couple of big climbs on very rough gravel. But we got a nice view of the Teton Mountain Range in the distance.
We also passed Indian Lake, which is a massive lake covered with lily pads. I had hoped to see a moose there, but it wasn’t to be.
We called in a Flagg Ranch, which is a hotel, shop and restaurant just outside Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, and then headed on to Coulter Bay to camp for the night.
- Day 21 – Upper lake CG (Montana) to Warm River (Idaho)
69 miles, 1765 ft, 26 deg
Got away early as a long day. The area we are in does not have many campsites and we often have to carry enough food for 2/3 days.
Early start Quick first 30 miles with good gravel roads and a little bit of single track. Crossed into Idaho at Continental divide # 7.
Most ranches have this gateway 
Idaho border At 30 miles we met the highway so got a late breakfast at Island Park and some more food for the next few days . We were going to have a Subway but not open on a Sunday.
Hard start after break as it was on a black sand road that was very difficult to ride on but we eventually hit the old Yellowstone branch line trail which was stunning as it overlooked the Warm River.
Warm River from trail Saw an Osprey on the trail coming into Warm River and when sitting having pizza and beer one landed on a tree beside us.
I think this was Ospreys! We took the photo a few days ago. 
We are now entering the part of the route that passes between Yellowstone and Gramd Teton National Parks so as well as being beautiful also has lots of bears.
- Day 20 – Lima to Red Rock Lakes, Upper Lake Camp Ground
56 miles, 2165ft
We enjoyed our night at the RV Park in Lima. It was good to get a shower and laundry done. We also got up late as we wanted breakfast at Jan’s Cafe and that didn’t open until 8am
We set off about 9.30, and had a rolling climb up to Lima dam and reservoir, then a descent to Red Rock Lakes national wildlife refuge,where we camped at Upper Lake camp ground.
The wildlife reserve was set up for trumpeter swans, which even trumpeted through the night. Others in the Campground heard a pack of wolves howling at 3am, but we slept through it.
The Campground is very nice. Next to a big lake, there is also a fresh water spring, so we don’t need to filter drinking water.
- Day 19 – Bannack to Lima (Montana)
81.5 miles, 4144 ft, 25 deg
Started in Bannack ghost town about 7am and headed back up the hill to have a look at the cemetery as we did not stop yesterday.
We then hit the Bannock road which was took us 13 miles to Grant.
We seemed to keep climbing for a long way but the views made up for it. The whole day it felt like we were in a Western movie.
We eventually started to descend and it took us through Sheeps Creek canyon
We got to Lima about 5, found a place for food, did some washing, had showers then had a few beers with the group of people that we keep meeting each day. A guy turned up at our camp and played a few songs for us. Great day!
- Day 18 – Pettengill to Bannack
49miles, 2618ft
Another early start, as there were a few places we wanted to visit, even though distance wise the day was fairly short.
We were back on tarmac, the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway. Lovely smooth road and we only saw 4 cars over the first hour. You could have been in the Alps on the first big climb, but the double yellow centre line was a reminder we are in USA.
First stop was Elkhorn hotsprings where we had a quick dip, followed by a drink in the bar.
Unfortunately Montana High Mountain Lodge where we’d hoped to have lunch was shut. So we made do with a couple of cereal bars then headed for Bannock, an old Mining Ghost town that was inhabited from 1862 until 1940s.
Bannock seemed to have a very rich history, with an early sheriff having previously been an inmate at San Quentin. While Sheriff he ran a criminal organisation called the Road Agents. Eventually a group of vigilantes tracked him down and hanged him and his deputies. Next Day vigilante justice turned to mob violence when another member of the gang shot 2 vigilantes while holled up in a building in the main street. The mob brought a cannon and shelled the cabin!
- Day 17 – Highland Trail CG to Pettengill CG
44.4 miles, 3700 ft, 25 deg
Set off from Highland CG just after 7am, it didn’t feel too cold but first few miles were all downhill so got very cold hands. Soon warmed up when we started climbing.
We had one of the notorious climbs and descents today, it is called Fleecer Ridge. I will post photos below but it does not show how steep it is!
Neil on the last bit We crossed the Big Hole river which is a world famous fishing destination.
Next stop was for some supplies at the only town on the route today, Wise River. Got some food for next few days then went to the Wise River club for food and coffee, great place.
Cycled about 10 miles out of town to the first campsite.
- Day 16 – Mormon Gulch to Highland
Mormon Gulch 51.5 miles, 4344ft
Up early for a fairly easy ride on good gravel and tarmac into Butte Montana.
First stop was Bad Beaver bikes to buy some Sealant. It turned out to be a real gem, with a coffee roaster based in the basement. Susan who owns the shop with her husband Ed, made us an amazing coffee, and told us tales of early days Mountain biking in Moab where the shop used to be based.
We then rode out of town to a safeway to buy some supplies.
On the way out we passed the old Berkley pit which which is situated on “the richest hill on earth”, it closed down in the 1980’s, leaving an opencast hole a mile wide and 1600ft deep. Since the pumps were switched off on the day it closed, it’s slowly filling with toxic water, which no-one seems to know what to do with. The toxic waste filled pit is the towns biggest tourist attraction, though!
I’m not sure what this place sells? I really enjoyed the cycle from Butte to Highland Trailhead, where we camped for the night. When we rode to Butte in the morning I was underfed and a bit dehydrated. After tuna steak sandwich , and a load of pepsi’s I was ready to take on the world again, and the afternoon ride was one of my favourites.
View on the way to Highland Trailhead 
Campsite for the night - Day 15 – Helena to Mormon Gulch CG
49.2 miles, 5942 ft, 28 deg
We thought this was going to be a hard day and it was but not as hot as we were expecting, we even had a few spots of rain. We saw the weather forecast this morning and it said that Phoenix , which is where we fly out from, was 37 deg overnight. Let’s hope it cools down a bit.
We had 3 climbs today. The third was the shortest at 6.12 miles but by far the hardest, most of it was hike a bike as it was very steep in places and ground was rough.
Every sign seems to be used as target practice 
Neil pushing up a hill. It really was steep! 
Tonight’s campsite We are sharing the campsite with a Belgian man, Max tonight, we are the only people here, it is really just a cleared bit of ground with no facilities.
- Day 14 – Rest Day in Helena
We’re having a rest day today. Visited the laundry and got some camping gas and a hydration waist pack. It’s been pretty hot the last few days, and we’ve not been carrying enough water.
Helena boomed during a gold rush in the 1800s. The old area of town (Last Chance Gulch) is pretty interesting, but most places are shut as it’s Sunday.
It feels a bit daunting leaving the air conditioning and setting off again tomorrow as it was 38c when we were riding on Saturday. Hopefully, it’ll cool down soon!
Montana State Capitol Building 
Old Governors Mansion - Day 13 – Lincoln to Helena (Montana)
62 miles, 5413 ft, 33 deg
Today was a long hot and tough ride.
When we got up at 6am, it was cold, had to put on our puffer jackets and wear them for the first hour. The first climb of the day was 10 miles long and took us up to our second continental divide crossing on Stemple Pass at 6800ft. We had to push our bikes on sections as it was very steep!
At the bottom of the descent we passed Llama Ranch which is another famous stop on the GDMBR. It is owned by Barbara and John who provide accommodation, soft drinks, beer and food free for all cyclists. It’s an amazing place. We popped in for cold drinks and a chat.
Llama Ranch It was 12 and 33 degrees and we still had 2 climbs to go! Views were still good.
We had a 6 mile climb to continental divide #3 (6400ft) then a short 3 mile climb of Priest Pass for # 4 (6000ft). Then 12 miles of descent of rocky and washed out gravel roads to get to Helena. Having a day off tomorrow 😊
We see deer all the time but got a photo of this one 
- Day 12 – Ovando to Lincoln (Montana)
39 miles 2700ft
We had a comfortable night in the teepee. I got up a little earlier to try to sort my back tyre that seemed to have developed a slow puncture. I had a small bottle of Stans Sealant that I’d ought in Banff, a couple of days before we started,when I went on a “this might come in handy” spending spree. The tyre got through the day, so happy days!
We went to the Stray Bullet Cafe for breakfast. The food was excellent!
The fly fishing store next door had a good selection of bike spares so I bought some more co2 cartridges, then we nipped to the shop over the road for some snacks and other bits and pieces.
The old jail looked pretty interesting. That was another option where cyclists could stay.
We felt good on the ride through Helena National Forest, on the way to Lincoln. There was one biggish climb, but we got there in good time and checked in to the Camping /RV park.
We’re hoping to make it to Helena tomorrow and have a rest day there.
- Day 11 – Holland Lake to Ovando (Montana)
58.3 miles, 4678 ft, 30 deg
Every day the scenery changes, yesterday we were in trees all day with very little gaps for views, today it was very open and almost Alpine.
There was a bit of a chill early on but it soon got very hot again. We were on gravel all day today except for a few sections of single track, some of which felt a little bit exposed.
Went through a few areas that had been badly damaged by wildfires but luckily we have not had any issues with them yet.
We made it to Orlando tonight which is a small town that welcomes cyclists. They have various accommodation in the town, the jail, a covered wagon and we are spending the night in a wigwam. A girl who was racing the route was killed by a bear in her tent so they now have an electric fence round the campground.
Most camp spots have these to keep food away from the bears! 
Orlando village store Now going to Trixi’s bar for something to eat.
View from Trixi’s - Day 10 – Bigfork to Holland Lake (Montana)
75 miles, 6000ft
The last 2 days had been short days, so we could spend time looking around Whitefish and Bigfork. We were therfore keen to get in some bigger miles, and planned to get up early and cover the 75 miles to Holland Lake.
Unfortunately, half a mile into the ride we noticed the bakery was open, and before we knew it, we were drinking coffee and sharing Caramel Pecan Roll and a slice of Huckleberry pie straight out the oven.
From Bigfork we had a few miles of tarmac, then we were back on gravel, which was fine and smooth and nice to ride on.
We arrived at Holland Lake but didn’t have the energy to cycle round the lake to the main Campground and lodge so pitched at the Packers camp ground, which is designed for people on horses, but was empty.
- Day 9 – Whitefish to Bigfork (Montana)
46 miles, 25 deg
Another short day as we want to go to Bigfork to see Flathead lake (largest lake west of the Mississippi). Ride was all on tarmac and not many hills so an easy day. We cruised through lots of private houses with huge range of styles and sizes. I love looking at different types of houses!
Crossing a railway line 
One of the houses we passed 
Another house 
Yet another Found a great spot for lunch just before Figfork
Lunch 
Bigfork is lovely little town. Stocked up on supplies for next couple of days, sorted out campsite and went for tea at Mexican pub.
Lots of people look out for GD riders along the route and the guy that took the photo has this sign in his garden. 
Bigfork - Day 8 – Red Meadow Lake to Whitefish (Montana)
30 miles, 928ft
We woke at 3am to the sound of something big moving around outside the tent. We had no food in the tent, so hoped whatever it was would leave us alone, and didnt want to risk startling it by investigating. We lay for a little while listening to it padding around, then fell back asleep.
The view of Red Meadow Lake was stunning when we got up. There was no sign of our overnight visitor, and we packed up and set off for whitefish.
The ride to Whitefish was mostly downhill, and we passed some other nice lakes, and some big houses on the banks of Lake Whitefish on the way into town.
We found a Laundromat next to the Pin & Cue cafe and Safeway supermarket. So we were able to get the washing done, get a massive breakfast and do a shop.
We then headed for the state park where they have camping reserved for cyclists and hikers who just turn up. The campsite is really nice, with covered seating areas, showers, bear lockers and is right next to Lake Whitefish which today looks more like the med.
- Day 7 – Eureka to Red Meadow Lake (Montana)
61 miles, 5200ft, 27deg
Set out from Riverside Park CG at 7ish after getting coffee and apple pies from the garage across the road.
Nice easy start along a road for about 10 miles. Surroundings very different from yesterday as we passed lots of houses and farms. Soon turned off road and onto gravel again and started climbing eventually got to Tuchuck CG and had lunch by the river.
Headed down after lunch and passed the area of the Red bench fire of 1988 which destroyed 40000 acres of lodgepole pine.
Last 10 miles was a tough climb up to Red Meddow Lake to camp.
Camp at Riverside Park in Eureka 
Found this bear beside the road! 
Forest fire area 
Campsite at Red Meadow Lake - Day 6 – Wigwam creek to Eureka (Montana)
43 miles, 4000ft, 25deg
We got up at 5.30 am and were left at 6.30. An exciting day ahead, crossing into the USA, which seems such a milestone.
Wigwam Creek The day turned out to be hard. The first 12 miles were uphill to Galton Pass (the last 8 miles 9% gradient), and the road was a loose and rough 4wd track. We also had to negotiate “The wall” a very steep exposed and muddy section, that requires you to remove the bags from the bike and ferry everything up, then put it back together at the top.
“The Wall” 
Roosville Next was a 3000ft descent on a loose gravelly trail, then 2 miles along the highway to the US / Canada border crossing at Roosville.
We weren’t sure what the Border officials would make of us. We looked like 2 tramps having camped in the woods for 2 days. Covered in mud from.”The wall”, and the humidity had Sheenas hair at frizz max. With a few dollars in cash, and half a tub of peanut butter and a couple of cereal bars left between us, we would’nt have been able to demonstrate any means of supporting ourselves. But the officials were very helpful and efficient, and we were fingerprinted and through in no time.
Eureka Park allows cyclists to camp, so we setup for the night there. Had a look around the historic village, and had dinner at front Porch
- Day 5 Butt’s campground to Ram-Wigwam campground (BC)
28.4 miles, 2051ft, 20 deg
Decided to spend a second day in Flathead valley so short day to another primative campground. Running low on food so will need to get to a town tomorrow. Having noodles with peanut butter tonight and cereal bar for breakfast.
Ride today was up a hill for 12 miles then down for another 15 miles, road on the way down was a bit rough in places so not as good as it sounds on bikes without suspension. It was very remote and did not see anyone all day. Plenty of wildlife, lots of squirrels, a couple of deer and little gofer/groundhog things that we see everywhere. Also lots of wildflowers, butterflies and obviously trees!
Now sitting watching river and drinking coffee 🥰
- Day 4 – Fernie to Butt’s camp ground in Flathead Valley
48.7 miles, 3675ft
The day started heading out of town on Cokato Rd then a long steady climb up lodgepole forest Road into Flathead Valley, which is the only Valley in southern Canada that’s completely uninhabited, and is also called the Grizzly highway.
Butt’s camp was very peaceful. We just got the tent up before a big downpour.
Canada has a much bigger selection of Heinz Baked beans than in the UK, half a dozen varieties that I could see. So we went for Baked Beans in Mapel syrup. Very nice.
- Day 3 – Elkford to Fernie (Alberta)
50.3 miles, 3602 ft, 20 deg
Day started with 15 miles of single track which was fun but slow going on loaded gravel bikes, then hit the the highway and a fast ride into Sparwood which is a big mining town. Lunch at Tim Hortons – good but a bit lacking in veggie options.
There seemed to be two options to get from Sparwood to Fernie, one down the highway the other a trail. We took the trail which turned out to be almost all single track for the 20 miles. It was slow going and part was closed so we ended up on a four wheel drive road which was very steep in places but made it to Fernie eventually.
No campsites available so in The Raging Elk, photos below.
Tough day but sitting in the bar with a beer 😊
Lll
Sulphur springs 
Morning single track 
Bigfoot! 
Must be up a hill as I am working hard! - DAY 2 Boulton Creek to Elfkford
51miles 2900ft
The day started with a steep climb up to Elk Pass. Saw lots of bear poo, coming down from Elk Pass, but no bears…
Met Ed and Sarah, who set off from the Mexican Border northbound in May. We’ve been following their tracker and blog since they started, so it was nice to see them.
Had some heavy rain and a muddy section, but it was fine when we arrived at Elkford, where we found a nice camp site and went to ‘B’ bistro for a burger.
- Day 1 – Banff to Boulton Creek CG (Alberta)
57 miles, 4219ft, 25 deg
Left Banff just before 8am and got photo at start, just outside the Banff Springs Hotel. Nice trail for first 20 miles but slow going as it was mostly uphill. Elevation at Banff is 4700ft and just went up from there. Next 30 miles was mostly on a very wide gravel road. it was a hot day so very dusty when cars/ trucks passes us.
We just missed a grizzly bear crossing the road, a car had stopped and had some photos of it!
Last few miles were through some lovely trails in the forests. Campsite at Boulton Creek perfect.
Lunch spot 
Campsite at Boulton Creek - 6th to 9th July – Edinburgh to Banff
Thurs – The bikes arrived in Calgary in one piece. Stayed the night in a hotel at the airport before getting the Banff Airporter shuttle to Banff.
Fri – Walked up tunnel Mountain, with great views of Banff Springs hotel and the Bow Valley, and started putting the bikes back together
Sat – Took the bikes for a test ride to Canmore, then climbed up to the spray lake trail and followed that back to Banff. Took a wrong turn coming into town, but it took us to Bow Falls, so the wrong turn was a bonus!
Sun-Rode to lake Minnewanka. The rest of the day was spend getting rid of bike boxes, doing laundry and getting ready to start tomorrow.
• • •
Turners on the Great Divide 